{"id":37466,"date":"2018-07-04T06:16:35","date_gmt":"2018-07-04T09:16:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blogdoprosperi.com\/?p=37466"},"modified":"2018-07-04T06:16:35","modified_gmt":"2018-07-04T09:16:35","slug":"um-diario-russo-4-de-patinete-em-moscou-ate-as-lagrimas-de-neymar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogdoprosperi.com\/?p=37466","title":{"rendered":"Um Di\u00e1rio Russo (4): De patinete em Moscou at\u00e9 as l\u00e1grimas de Neymar"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\"Chuteira<\/span>Luiz Antonio Pr\u00f3speri, de Moscou \/ R\u00fassia<\/strong><\/p>\n

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S\u00e3o Petersburgo e Moscou (de 19 a 23\/6)<\/strong><\/p>\n

Rostov-on-Don agora n\u00e3o passava de fotos na galeria do meu celular, alguns perrengues nos t\u00e1xis da vida e a estreia do\u00edda do Brasil contra Su\u00ed\u00e7a. A cidade castigada pela hist\u00f3ria n\u00e3o seria mais revisitada, pelo menos nessa Copa. Meu destino: Moscou. Uma longa viagem de 25h de trem me aguardava. Embarquei como uma crian\u00e7a se sente feliz na primeira aventura para conhecer o mar. Evidente que n\u00e3o encontraria o mar na capital russa. A sensa\u00e7\u00e3o era a de um moleque alegre e curioso por uma nova travessura. N\u00e3o estava nem um pouco preocupado em passar um dia no trem. Teria tempo para ler mais de \u201cUm Di\u00e1rio Russo\u201d, de Steinbeck\/Capa, descansar a carca\u00e7a e imaginar o que viria pela frente. Cabe a\u00ed tamb\u00e9m um tempo para refletir na bendita Sele\u00e7\u00e3o do Tite e o futuro na Copa.<\/p>\n

Na cabine de quatro lugares (dois beliches estreitos), apenas um companheiro de viagem. Era um jovem russo, 24 anos. N\u00e3o especulei sobre sua vida. Apenas perguntas b\u00e1sicas. Era estudante, dominava bem o ingl\u00eas e filho de classe m\u00e9dia um tanto abastada. Vivia em Moscou e trazia na mochila alguns pares de ingressos dos jogos da Copa. Tinha ido a dois, Brasil x Su\u00ed\u00e7a, inclusive, e acompanharia mais tr\u00eas, no m\u00ednimo, andando de trem R\u00fassia afora. Vestia uma camisa da Sele\u00e7\u00e3o da Inglaterra. Me disse que n\u00e3o era torcedor dos ingleses. Carregava uma da Espanha, que tratou de vestir t\u00e3o logo desembarcamos em Moscou. Era mais um apaixonado por futebol desfrutando no seu pa\u00eds do jogo da bola. Futebol \u00e9 assim.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

As 25h passaram bem r\u00e1pidas. Estive no vag\u00e3o-restaurante, durante a madrugada, e encontrei um punhado de brasileiros com anima\u00e7\u00e3o danada movida \u00e0 cerveja. N\u00e3o eram do tipo desprez\u00edvel daqueles do \u201cB.. rosa\u201d. Cantavam, se divertiam e na hora do samba, caprichavam: \u201c\u00d4, abre a cortina do passado;\u00a0Tira a m\u00e3e preta do cerrado;\u00a0Bota o rei congo no congado.\u00a0Brasil!\u2026 Brasil!\u2026\u201d. Gostei.<\/p>\n

Minha primeira miss\u00e3o em Moscou, depois de alojado em um loft modesto e honesto, era catar hist\u00f3rias e imagens. Andaria um pouco pela regi\u00e3o para demarcar territ\u00f3rio e conhecer um pouco do dia a dia dos russos na capital, sem defender ou procurar por teses. O segundo jogo do Brasil seria em S\u00e3o Petersburgo, dia 22. Daria tempo para a peregrina\u00e7\u00e3o.<\/p>\n

A ideia era fotografar pessoas, lugares e decifrar alguns mist\u00e9rios. Foi ent\u00e3o que me rendi. Para questionar algu\u00e9m nas ruas eu precisava de um tradutor. Relutei em usar a engenhoca do celular. N\u00e3o teve jeito. Nas dificuldades, sacava o aparelho, procurava o Google tradutor, e pronto. Tocava a tecla, falava em portugu\u00eas e o danado respondia em russo ao meu interlocutor. Ele respondia em russo e eu ouvia em portugu\u00eas. Eu saiba dessa facilidade desde o in\u00edcio, mas n\u00e3o queria desfrutar da tecnologia no come\u00e7o da travessia pela R\u00fassia. Mandei \u00e0s favas. Santo Google Tradutor.<\/p>\n

Iniciei minha caminhada pela Avenida Thverskaya, cal\u00e7adas opulentas, lojas de grifes, alguns museus. Carros em alt\u00edssima velocidade. Na minha cabe\u00e7a ainda soavam as cr\u00edticas daquele taxista suspeito em Rostov. Dizia ele que milhares de pessoas dormiam nas ruas russas. Pensei nisso a cada quadra vencida. Confesso, quase n\u00e3o vi pessoas abandonadas naquela regi\u00e3o. Putin mandou as recolher? Fotografei algumas.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

No ir e vir naquela longa avenida, percebi tamb\u00e9m que jovens e nem t\u00e3o jovens assim se locomoviam de patinetes, da simples, a dar galeio com os p\u00e9s, \u00e0s motorizadas. Um ve\u00edculo interessante, pr\u00e9-hist\u00f3rico, n\u00e3o poluente, f\u00e1cil de manobrar e, detalhe, n\u00e3o ocupa espa\u00e7os nos metr\u00f4s. Ideal para uma cidade plana como Moscou. Eles n\u00e3o s\u00e3o muitos, mas deslizam pelas cal\u00e7adas lisas como pistas de patina\u00e7\u00e3o, sem obst\u00e1culos e n\u00e3o importunam ningu\u00e9m com buzinas e gritos hist\u00e9ricos diante dos transeuntes.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Lembra daquele enxame de motos de S\u00e3o Paulo transportando de tudo? Aqui muitos entregam mercadorias, pizzas, fast-food a bordo das patinetes.<\/p>\n

Algumas fachadas me chamavam aten\u00e7\u00e3o. Em uma delas, de grande porte, cravada num edif\u00edcio de escrit\u00f3rios, notei s\u00edmbolos do comunismo e a figura de Lenin. Saquei o celular, perguntei a um transeunte o que significava a fachada. \u201c\u00c9 o jornal Izvestia\u201d. A sede. Me deu vontade de visitar a reda\u00e7\u00e3o de um jornal importante no per\u00edodo do comunismo. N\u00e3o entrei no pr\u00e9dio e percebi que ao lado da fachada do Izvestia\u00a0de tantas jornadas estava uma solene propaganda da Coca-Cola, s\u00edmbolo eterno do capitalismo.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Nas ruas, pouca gente te incomoda, pelo menos na regi\u00e3o da Thverskaya, tentando vender algo, ou pedindo um trocado ou oferecendo servi\u00e7os. Uma mo\u00e7a, com tra\u00e7os nada russos, me abordou duas vezes em dois dias consecutivos para me entregar um folheto. Na segunda tentativa peguei o papel por educa\u00e7\u00e3o e curiosidade. Olha a foto do folheto que a moca em entregou:<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

Fechei a jornada em Moscou e no dia seguinte tomaria rumo a S\u00e3o Petersburgo para acompanhar o segundo jogo do Brasil na Copa. Advers\u00e1rio fraco, a Costa Rica. Embarquei no quarto trem da minha travessia russa. Sairia de madrugada, amanheceria em S\u00e3o Petersburgo, faria a cobertura do jogo e embarcaria de madrugada de volta para Moscou.<\/p>\n

A viagem de ida, perfeita. Na cabine, um rep\u00f3rter da Folha<\/em> e um torcedor marroquino. A volta, seria tranquila com a vit\u00f3ria do Brasil por 2 a 0. Ufa!. Foram 11h para ir, mais 11h20 para voltar. Cabine lotada. Um russo, dois eg\u00edpcios. Um deles cantava, \u201cSalah-Firmino\u201d em rever\u00eancia \u00e0 dupla do Liverpool at\u00e9 ent\u00e3o a servi\u00e7o do Brasil e Egito na Copa. Claro que o trem estava entupido de brasileiros, roucos e, muitos deles, b\u00eabados.<\/p>\n

Minha volta n\u00e3o foi t\u00e3o tranquila assim. N\u00e3o deu tempo de desfrutar de S\u00e3o Petersburgo e ainda estava encafifado: Por que Neymar havia chorado daquele jeito depois do jogo?<\/p>\n

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  Luiz Antonio Pr\u00f3speri, de Moscou \/ R\u00fassia S\u00e3o Petersburgo e Moscou (de 19 a 23\/6) Rostov-on-Don agora […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":102107496,"featured_media":37468,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_coblocks_attr":"","_coblocks_dimensions":"","_coblocks_responsive_height":"","_coblocks_accordion_ie_support":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_wpcom_ai_launchpad_first_post":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[43723753,53870],"tags":[643960935,17038278,789560560,4112146,4237526,139543],"class_list":["post-37466","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-copa-do-mundo-2018","category-futebol","tag-copa-do-muno-da-russia","tag-diario-russo","tag-futebol","tag-neymar","tag-patinete","tag-putin"],"yoast_head":"\nUm Di\u00e1rio Russo (4): De patinete em Moscou at\u00e9 as l\u00e1grimas de Neymar - 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